LIFE TALES: My return to Sheffield.. all ‘erbs an’ that there garlic.

All good things (even work) come to an end, so after a few eventful and enjoyable years in California I returned to Sheffield, not knowing what lay ahead.

It was now the early 80’s (the decade, not my age!). Pubs didn’t really serve food, aside from bags of crisps and nuts with your pint or port and lemon; eating out was the domain of cafés and restaurants. Slowly Ploughman’s Lunches, maybe prawn sandwiches, chicken-in-a-basket and chips crept in – a culinary revolution! 

There was a country pub just outside Sheffield in the Peak District. The pub was busy in the evenings – still in the era before the realisation drinking and driving wasn’t a sensible thing to do – but lunchtime trade was poor. The proprietor had an idea the local farmers and workers could be tempted by a pie to go with their lunchtime pint. Now who could he get to produce the appropriate meat and potato fare?

In a conversation with a friend who worked there my son said his Ma had just returned from working the America and perhaps making these pies would suit her. After meeting and talking through ideas the owner decided this was worth a try and – Bingo – busy lunchtimes ensued!  

The increased trade drove the demand for more variation on the menu. As the clientele were predominately male (and this was still the 1980’s!) shepherd’s pie was added. This was supplemented by a new idea of mine, Hot Spicy Beef sandwiches – huge joints of brisket slowly cooked overnight in beer (what else!), then thickly sliced and served in fresh crusty bread. 

Word quickly spread, so food-service was expanded to early evenings to boost trade further. Of course the customer base also evolved – a wider mix of ages and (especially) more female customers – so more dishes and options were needed.  

The lunchtime eaters were mostly farm workers and businessmen passing through. I was told plain, tasty food was the order of the day – meat pies being a perfect example.

One elderly gent gave fair warning and in no uncertain terms that he didn’t hold with “them there ‘erbs an’ stuff – and none of that garlic an’ all!”.

As I used both liberally I conveniently forgot to mention and kept my fingers crossed as he tucked into whatever pie was on the menu that day. Fortunately no complaints ever came to my ears! 

The evening food still needed to be fairly simple; I was working alone in a cupboard-sized kitchen. The bar staff served, cleared tables and helped with washing up but there was only me cooking Monday to Friday. I did get Saturdays and Sundays off (seems strange nowadays doesn’t it?) as the bar staff dealt with sandwiches and ploughmans at the weekend. As my confidence grew, and having learned the art of lasagne and spare ribs in California, they were now included. Customers seemed more prepared to accept ‘erbs an’ that there garlic in the evening. Food was served until 7.30pm, seemed to work fine! 

When the business was sold (at a healthy profit of course) I had a new boss, a lovely lady who took over with her husband and two grown up children. This was a happy spell for me. Busier than ever, and I had help!  Brenda was really supportive and hired an assistant, the wonderful Nora. Here background as a school dinner lady and mother to a large family of grown up kids was the best training she could have had! 

Business boomed, so much so that it was again sold on at a healthy profit. In came another new owner, wanting to go further into developing a bistro restaurant style. Much work was done extending the kitchen, food preparation and storage areas and – onwards and upwards – more staff. I like things small but done well, and this was getting too big for my style.

Reluctantly, and after much deliberation, I decided it was once again time to move on; I was going to go it alone. 

Bye for now.

BAKING TIPS: Social Distancing – Bakes for when staying home. Part 1.

What a strange, scary-sad time we are experiencing, unlike any other period I have known.  Having an interest in food and cooking is keeping me sane. Flour is in short supply – although I usually keep a good stock (which is dwindling) – an appreciated Mother’s Day gift of 2 large bags was very welcome. Over Easter I was trawling my old recipes – an unusual Simnel cake using chocolate is a tasty treat!  

You will need a deep 8” (20cm) cake tin with a loose base or a springform tin, greased and lined. Set the oven to gas 4 (160 fan). 

Ingredients: 

  • 8oz raisins – soaked in (enough to cover) a sweet sherry, wine or amaretto liquor is good 
  • 8oz butter – a block, softened 
  • 8oz golden/caster sugar 
  • 4 large eggs – beaten 
  • 9oz plain flour 
  • 2oz coco powder 
  • 1 level teaspoon baking powder 
  • 1 level teaspoon bicarbonate soda 
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla essence 
  • 1 small carton plain yogurt or soured cream 
  • 1 packet of block marzipan (to cover the finished cake) plus an extra block to form eleven small balls (apostles!) to decorate 
  • 1 bar plain chocolate to melt over the marzipan 

Method 

  1. Mix all the dry ingredients together in a bowl 
  1. Beat together the butter and sugar in a separate bowl 
  1. Slowly add the egg and vanilla essence to the butter and sugar 
  1. Fold in the dry mix 
  1. Add the fruit with the liquid, yogurt/soured cream 
  1. If the mixture is still a little stiff, add a drop of milk 
  1. Transfer to the tin and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes 
  1. Test the centre with a metal skewer, it should come out clean (if not put back into oven cover top with greaseproof paper and give it another 10 minutes) 
  1. Once cooked, leave to cool 
  1. Brush the top of the cake with warm Jam (to stick the marzipan) 
  1. Dust surface of the table and rolling pin with icing sugar and coco powder to prevent sticking 
  1. Roll out the marzipan (if it’s difficult put it in the microwave for 10 seconds) and lay over the cake 
  1. Make 11 balls of marzipan and roll them in the coco and icing sugar 
  1. When the cake is covered in jam – then marzipan – melt the chocolate with a knob of butter and pour over the cake, place the balls around the edge  

Vegans, have you discovered the alternative to egg whites?

Aquafaba! Yes, this magic liquid comes from draining your chickpeas! It does take longer to whisk – but reasonable results are obtained. A large stand mixer works best and you can leave it running whilst getting on with preparation. A hand (electric) whisk does the job as well, although you need to stand for around 10 minutes – perhaps the aquafaba in some tins is more watery. 

Before you venture into proper meringues, maybe you would like to try this simple version.

Macaroon biscuits. 

  • Aquafaba from chickpeas thoroughly whisked until fairly stiff 
  • 4oz caster sugar 
  • 1 teaspoon corn flour  
  • 2oz ground almonds 
  • 4oz desiccated coconut 

Method 

  1. Put the oven to gas 4 (fan 160-170) 
  1. Mix together the dry ingredients 
  1. Gently fold into the whisked aquafaba (make sure the dry mix is well incorporated) 
  1. Have ready 2 baking sheets lightly greased and covered with baking paper or rice paper 
  1. Place a dessert spoon full of mix – widely spaced – onto baking sheets. Flatten slightly with the back of the spoon (dipped in water to prevent sticking) 
  1. Bake for 20-30 minutes until firm (not brown) 

I’ll sign off this section – asking you all to stay positive – keep in touch with family and friends… from a distance! Live from week to week, this will pass.  

Love to you all, Gran E 

I’d love to see if you trial this recipe. Send me your pictures – I’m @gran.e.bakes on Instagram.